Columnists

March 30, 2010

My kind of Easter bunny

rabbit stew

With Easter coming up, many people will be glazing hams, poaching salmon and roasting turkeys for their Easter Feasters. At my house, we’ll be eating rabbit. I’m certainly not too old to enjoy a good piece of Easter chocolate, but I’m definitely past crawling around on the floor looking for hidden chocolate bunnies that taste more like waxen sugar than chocolate. (Besides, I invariably find dust bunnies, too, and that causes me to clean instead of holiday).

While I might sound macabre, you should know that eating rabbit is trending up. I was surprised to read in Kim Seversen’s recent New York Times article that rabbit has been a difficult sell in New York restaurants. In 1996 when my husband and his partner opened Pangaea, ballotine of rabbit was on the menu and sold as well then as it does today.

With rabbit becoming more popular at restaurants, more people are cooking it at home, too. I’ve seen it in every major grocery store lately sold skinned, cleaned and whole. Although many people compare rabbit to chicken, it has its own challenges in the kitchen.

1. Boning rabbit is difficult since its skeletal structure changes at the midway point of the spine. The spine at the back half of the rabbit has five points, like a star, and the knife must navigate around each of these points. It’s a bit finicky so ask the butcher if he’ll bone it for you if you need a boneless piece of meat for your recipe.

2. Cook rabbit until the internal temperature reaches 160ºF on an instant read thermometer.

3. In my area, most rabbits sold are young, small and tender. You can easily identify them by their nice pink skin and small size; they’re usually less than 3 lbs (1.5 kg). Older rabbits have darker meat and are larger and a little tougher so they’re ideal for braising.

Looking for an easy beginner rabbit recipe? This one is easy and delicious. I like to serve it with polenta!

Rabbit Cacciatore

2 tbsp (30 mL) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (5 mL) each salt and pepper
1 young rabbit, cut into pieces
3 tbsp (45 mL) vegetable oil
1/2 cup (125 mL) red wine or low sodium chicken broth
1 large onion, sliced
11/2 tsp (7 mL) each dried thyme and oregano leaves
1 bay leaf
2 cups (500 mL) sliced mushrooms, about 4 oz/125 g
1 can (28 oz/796 mL) diced tomatoes
3 tbsp (45 mL) tomato paste
4 tsp ( 20 mL) balsamic vinegar
1 green pepper, cored and chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced

Blend the flour with the salt and pepper. Coat the rabbit evenly in this mixture. Heat half the oil in a deep skillet or Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Brown the rabbit all over, working in batches. Transfer browned pieces to a bowl.

Stir the wine into the pan and bring to a boil. Stir to scrape up the cooked on bits. When the wine is reduced by half, add the remaining oil and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion, thyme and oregano. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes longer. Add a small amount of the diced tomatoes to scrape up all the cooked on bits. Then add the remaining diced tomatoes, tomato paste, vinegar, green pepper, and garlic.

Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring often with a wooden spoon. Nestle the browned rabbit pieces into the tomato mixture and reduce heat to low. Simmer, stirring and turning the meat occasionally, for 30 to 45 minutes or until rabbit is cooked through and juices are thickened. Makes 4 servings. (Recipe doubles easily.)

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Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
5:30 am
_
March 10, 2010

Jump into spring: Rhubarb

rhubarb

While the rhubarb in my garden won’t be ready to pick and cook until June, this case of fresh Ontario rhubarb arrived at the test kitchen a couple of weeks ago. How is it possible? Through the ingenuity of farmers who won’t let our climate keep them idle.

I visited Lennox Farm a couple of summers ago and toured the dark barns where this rhubarb was grown. Located in Dufferin County near Shelburne, Ontario, Lennox farm is owned and operated by Bill French, a 5th generation farmer who is one of the four biggest producers of rhubarb in Ontario.

The first taste of rhubarb is always like a mouthful of spring for me. And, although I can be satisfied with rhubarb compote spooned over a buttery slice of toast, I love this yummy rhubarb studded tea loaf, too.

Rhubarb Marble Loaf

2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour
2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder
1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt
1/3 cup (75 mL) milk
1/3 cup (75 mL) lemon juice
1/2 cup (125 mL) softened butter
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
3 eggs
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla
1 1/2 cup (375 mL) sliced rhubarb
1/2 cup (125 mL) lightly packed brown sugar

Line a 9-x 5-in loaf pan with a strip of parchment paper and grease well. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Stir flour with baking powder, baking soda and salt. Reserve. Stir milk with lemon juice. Let stand for 5 minutes. Combine rhubarb with brown sugar in a food processor and pulse until well combined but still chunky. Reserve.

Beat butter with sugar until creamy. Beat in eggs, one at a time. Add vanilla. Alternately beat in flour mixture and milk mixture in two additions. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Spoon one third of the batter into the loaf pan(s). Spoon over half of the rhubarb mixture. Repeat. Top with remaining batter. Swirl a knife through the batter to marble the rhubarb and then smooth the top. Bake for 60 minutes or until a tester inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool in the pan on a rack.

What foods are harbingers of spring in your area? And what spring recipes do you look forward to making all winter long?

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Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
7:30 am
_
February 24, 2010

Mix it up with yummy lamb burgers

DSC03507

I’ve been so bored with dinner lately. Seriously. I’m ready to change seasons and move on already. But, the fact of the matter is that here in Ontario it’s a good 6 (or more) weeks before spring will even start and many weeks after that before we’ll have any new local produce or nice weather.

So, in the meantime, I’m going to mix it up a bit by making entrées that feel springlike but that are still hearty enough to keep us going in the cold.

First up: Yummy lamb burgers seared in a grill pan.

Moroccan Spiced Lamb Burgers

1 small onion, peeled and finely grated
1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped fresh mint and lemon juice
1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp (2 mL) hot pepper sauce
1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt
1/4 tsp (1mL) pepper
1 egg, beaten
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh breadcrumbs
1 lb (500 g) lean ground lamb
2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil
4 pitas, halved
Lettuce, tomato and olives, feta, etc.

Combine the onion, mint, lemon juice, cinnamon, hot pepper sauce, salt, pepper egg and garlic. Stir together until well combined. Stir in the breadcrumbs. Crumble in the ground lamb and toss gently until evenly combined. Shape into four equal-sized patties.

Heat the oil in a large grill pan set over medium heat. Add the patties. Cook, covered, turning once or twice, for 15 to 20 minutes or until cooked through. Lift out of pan and blot on a paper towel lined plate before serving. Serve in lettuce- and tomato-stuffed pita halves with feta. Makes 4 servings.

What transitional winter to spring foods are you making to stave off beef stew boredom?

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Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
7:30 am
_
February 15, 2010

Curried cauliflower gratin

currycauliflowre

So, I was on ‘the twitter’ (as I like to say) last Sunday just before dinner time and I wondered to the universe if curried cauliflower gratin was something others would be interested in making. Turns out, the answer was ‘YES!’ (I really hadn’t expected an answer since I thought I was the only one not watching the Super Bowl. Turns out sports enthusiasts aren’t really my fan base.)

After making the recipe (and tweeting about it in real time) I had a tasty side dish but the sauce was a little thin. I’ve since had a chance to retest and the recipe is ready for public distribution! Mellowly yellow, mildly spiced and quite cheesy, it has whole family appeal. In fact, if you have the ingredients on hand, you might enjoy making it today for Family Day. (If you have no idea what the heck Family Day is, don’t worry. It’s a new holiday here in Ontario and few people I know have figured it out either.)

Curried Cauliflower Gratin

8 cups (2L) raw cauliflower florets, 1 head
1 onion, peeled, halved and sliced
2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp (15 mL) minced fresh ginger
1 tsp (5 mL) each cumin seeds and ground coriander seed
½ tsp (2 mL) each salt and ground turmeric
¼ tsp (1 mL) each ground cardamom and pepper
¼ cup (50 mL) all-purpose flour
2 cups (500 mL) warm milk
1 cup (250 mL) shredded aged white cheddar cheese
Topping (optional)
2 tbsp (30 mL) shredded aged white cheddar cheese
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped fresh parsley

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Bring a Dutch oven filled with salted water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook for 5 minutes. Drain. Spread the cauliflower on paper towel and top with another sheet. Blot dry.

Heat the oil over medium heat in the now empty Dutch oven. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until softened. Stir in the garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander, salt, turmeric, cardamom and pepper. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Dust this mixture with flour and stir to combine.

Whisk a little of the milk into this mixture and stir until well combined. Add the remaining milk and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes or until very thick. Add the cheese and remove from the heat. Blend well. Stir in the cauliflower until coated all over in cheese sauce.

Transfer the mixture to a greased 9-inch (23 cm) baking dish. Bake for 25 minutes. Sprinkle with additional cheese and parsley (if using). Bake for 5 minutes or until the sauce is bubbly and the top is golden. Makes 6 servings.

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Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
7:30 am
_
January 19, 2010

Topline Trend Tuesdays: Savoury baked apples

100159_cheddar-stuffed_baked_apples

Baked apple recipes that combine sweet and savoury elements are popping up in recipe books and on menus more often. Served as either a side dish for dishes such as pork chops or ham or as a combination dessert and cheese course, these identity challenged little morsels add an interesting twist to home entertaining menus, too.

Here’s a “trendy” recipe you can try out on your friends and family:

Cheesy Stuffed Baked Apples

4 Granny Smith apples
1/4 cup (50 mL) softened butter
1/3 cup (75 mL) lightly packed brown sugar
1/2 cup (125 mL) each dried cranberries and chopped walnuts or pecans
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) shredded aged Cheddar cheese
Sauce:
1 cup (250 mL) cranberry or apple juice
1 cinnamon stick
1 tbsp (15 mL) brandy
1 tsp (5 mL) butter

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Core each apple, leaving the bottom intact. Cream the butter with the brown sugar and stir in the cranberries, walnuts and 1/2 cup (125 mL) of the cheese. Divide the mixture evenly between each apple, packing it gently into the cavities.

2. Arrange the apples in a 9-in (23-cm) round cake pan. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until tender. Transfer the hot apples to a deep serving platter and sprinkle tops evenly with remaining cheese.

3. Set the hot baking pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Add the juice, cinnamon stick and brandy and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes or until the pan juices are reduced and slightly thickened. Discard cinnamon sticks. Whisk in butter. Drizzle sauce over the apples on the platter. Makes 4 servings.

How do you feel about sweet and savoury baked apples? Hit or miss?

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Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
7:30 am
_
January 18, 2010

Mmmmm... noodles

101353_asian_noodles_with_vegetables_

Got the winter blues? Craving comfort food but don’t have the time make lasagna? Want to spice things up but too lazy to shave your legs or find a date? Then these firecracker noodles are for you!

Firecracker Noodles

2/3 cup (150 mL) chicken broth
2 tbsp (30 mL) siracha
2 tbsp (30 mL) mirin or sherry
4 tsp (20 mL) soy sauce
2 tsp (10 mL) each lime juice and fish sauce
1 tsp (5 mL) granulated sugar
1 tbsp (15 mL) cornstarch
2tbsp (30 mL) sesame oil
2 finely chopped red chilies
1 onion, thinly sliced
3 cups (750 mL) thinly sliced veggies such as peppers, snow peas, broccoli, green beans, water chestnuts
8 cups (2 L) hot cooked chow mein noodles or whole wheat spaghetti
Chopped fresh coriander
Sesame seeds

Blend the broth with the siracha, mirin, soy sauce, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and cornstarch. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large wok or deep skillet set over high heat. Add the chilies and toss to coat in oil. Add the onion and veggies and stir-fry for 3 to 5 minutes or until fork tender. Make a well in the vegetables; stir the cornstarch mixture and pour into the well. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes or until thickened. Add the noodles and toss to coat.

Sprinkle with coriander and sesame seeds and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

How do you spice things up in the kitchen this time of year?

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Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
7:30 am
_
December 18, 2009

Weekend party trick: 60-second cranberry sauce recipes

100039_cranberry-chipotle_coconut_shrimp

Cranberry sauce is a perfect pantry partner that no host should be without at this time of year. Seriously: go buy some right now if you don’t have some already on hand.

Then, keep these ideas top of mind and you’ll be able to turn bought or frozen hors d’oeuvres into your own gourmet expressions in less time than it takes to light candles.

1. Stir chopped cilantro or mint into cranberry sauce along with a few dashes of chipotle sauce to make a super dip for coconut battered shrimp.
2. Blend cranberry sauce with orange zest and candied peel and spread it evenly over the cut side of a French stick that has been halved lengthwise. Sprinkle liberally with aged Cheddar and toast in the oven until cheese is molten.
3. Spread an even layer of cream cheese into a plate. Blend cranberry sauce with chopped green onion. Sprinkle with shredded mozzarella or cheddar cheese and serve with crackers or tortilla chips as a layered dip.

PS: Looking for advice about making cranberry sauce? I’ve got you covered!

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Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
7:30 am
_
November 24, 2009

French onion soup

Fr onion soup

For me, French onion soup has a retro appeal that’s hard to beat. When made well, it’s a rich, full-flavoured broth in which tender, sweet onions bask. Instead of covering it with a heavy, greasy layer of cheese, I prefer to make a Gruyere-topped crostini that you can either float on top of the soup or stand up on one side of the bowl.

Regardless of how you position the cheese and bread, be sure to choose good quality Gruyere cheese. I think it’s much yummier than regular Swiss cheese. Given a choice, I buy Gruyere that has been aged for 10 to 12 months since it has a rich, nutty flavor. Gruyere also has a medium fat content so that complements the flavour of the onions without overwhelming their zesty taste.

French onion soup

3 tbsp (30 mL) butter
2 Spanish or 3 medium cooking onions, peeled
and sliced
2 clove garlic, minced
11/2 tsp (7 mL) dried thyme
1/2 tsp (2 mL) each salt and pepper
1 tbsp (15 mL) granulated sugar
1/3 cup (75 mL) sherry
1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce
6 cups (1.5 L) beef broth
6 slices, thick baguette
1 cup (250 mL) shredded Gruyere or other Swiss cheese*
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped fresh parsley (optional)

Melt butter in a Dutch oven set over medium-low heat. Add onions, garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 20 minutes or until onions are translucent and very soft. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until onions are just beginning to brown. Sprinkle in sugar and continue to cook, stirring often, until very brown but not scorched.

Add sherry and Worcestershire sauce. Stir to scrape up any brown bits. Add the broth and bring soup to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.

Preheat the broiler to high. Toast the baguette slices on a baking sheet until golden on each side. Sprinkle cheese and parsley (if using) even over the toasts. Broil until cheese is bubbly and golden. Ladle an equal amount of soup into each bowl. Top with a cheese crouton and serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

* This recipe appeared in Dana’s Top Ten Table.

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Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
4:40 pm
_

Judgmental

Peanut ButterI’ve always thought of myself as an open minded person but obviously, the rest of the world doesn’t see me that way.  Somehow, I’ve become known as as judgemental. In the last month I’ve been asked to judge everything from cookies and cooking to beer pouring.

First I participated as a judge along with Elizabeth Baird and Stephanie Pick at the Gay Lea Shortbread Contest. The winning recipe was not only delicious but technically interesting as well. (The recipe is below if you’d like to try it.)

Then, I was off to New York to be a judge at the international Stella Artois Draught Master challenge where the world’s best draftmaster was crowned. And, lastly I joined the chefs from the Delta Grandview Hotel as a judge in an Iron Chef style competition between 8 teams of Kraft employees.

I’m both full and exhausted! Seriously, it’s much harder work to judge other people than I anticipated. It’s been a true test of my attention span.

Fortunately, the next contest that I’m involved with requires me to be a host and not a judge. On January 22nd, I’ll preside over the first ever Canadian version of the Pillsbury Bake Off! There’s still time to enter and to vote on your favourite recipes so make sure you visit the contest website to find out more details!

Have you ever entered a food or beverage competition? If so, was it fun or frightening?

Peanut Butter and Jelly Shortbread Bars

Shortbread:
1 cup unsalted Gay Lea Butter, softened 250 mL
1 cup granulated sugar 250 mL
1 egg yolk 1
1/2 tsp vanilla extract (optional) 2 mL
2 cups all purpose flour 500 mL
1 tsp baking powder 5 mL
1/4 tsp salt 1 mL

Filling:
3/4 cup blueberry jam 175 mL
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter 125 mL
1/2 cup icing sugar 125 mL
2 tbsp unsalted Gay Lea Butter, softened 30 mL

Instructions:

In a large bowl, beat the butter with the sugar and egg yolk, using an electric mixer, for 2 minutes or until light and fluffy. In a separate bowl blend together flour, baking powder and salt until well combined.

Divide the dough into two equal portions and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate dough for 1 to 4 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a 9 x 13-inch (3 L) baking dish with parchment paper; reserve. Remove dough from fridge. Shred dough using a coarse grater or food processor, fitted with a metal shredding blade; replace one portion of shredded dough to the fridge.

Arrange remaining dough in an even layer in the prepared baking dish; lightly pat the dough down. Bake for 20 minutes or until lightly golden around the edges; cool for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, blend the jam with the icing sugar and butter until smooth and well combined. Spread the peanut butter over the shortbread base in an even layer. Drop spoonfuls of the jam mixture over the peanut butter and gently spread in an even layer.

Remove the remaining dough from the freezer and scatter over the jam layer. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the top is set and lightly golden brown. Transfer pan to a wire rack and cool completely; cut into bars.

Makes 24 bars.

Tip: Try grape jelly or strawberry jam in place of the blueberry jam for a fun twist.

Tags: , , , , ,
Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
7:30 am
_
November 20, 2009

Weekend Party Trick: 60-second appetizer

brie1

The challenge: make a great looking appetizer that tastes fantastic in less time than it takes to wiggle into your party clothes.

The solution: Fruit and Nut topped Camembert

1 wheel Camembert or Brie cheese
Liquid honey
1 handful Back to Nature Raisins, Almonds, Pumpkin Seeds, Pecans and Apricots blend

Place the cheese on a platter and drizzle with some honey. Mound some of the trail mix on top. Drizzle with a bit more honey and serve with grapes, apple slices and crackers.

Need a wine match? Try an off-dry Riesling for white drinkers or a light, fruity pinot noir for a red choice. Can’t decide between red or white? Prosecco is a great match, too!

Now that you’ve seen my favourite party trick, tell me about yours!

Tags: , , , , ,
Author(s):
Dana McCauley
Updated:
7:30 am
_
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