Quick, how could you save about 30 per cent on your home heating costs? If you have an uninsulated basement, head down the stairs and have a look at your energy-saving potential.
The thinking used to be that basements don’t need insulating because, well, they’re underground, nestled inside the insulating walls of earth around the foundation walls. But those walls rise above grade, and heat rises. The rim joist, or header area at the top of the foundation walls, up to the main-level flooring, is a major heat-loss zone, so your furnace (and your wallet) has to work harder when you have gaps in your insulation – or no insulation at all – on your basement walls and up into the wall perimeter.
Since 2008, the Ontario Building Code has required that new houses be built with insulated basements. Those of us with older homes can cut our energy (and thus carbon) use by retrofitting insulation on our basement walls and on the rim joists where the foundation walls meet the base of main floor walls.
And that’s what I’m up to right now, in my free time. My home was built in the 1940s. Although the basement was finished decades ago, I peeled back (OK, a team of friends and I sawed, pried and otherwise arduously removed) the trim and wood panelling and voila, bare concrete walls. Nice walls, mind you — dry, mould-free walls — but totally uninsulated walls.
If I were building new, I would insulate my basement as part of the construction using a system such as insulated concrete forms (ICFs, explained here). ICFs have an R-value (a measure of how insulating they are) of R-18 to R-30 and make up the structure of your foundation, in place of traditional concrete block.
If you have uninsulated basement walls, you can retrofit a basement by building stud walls along the foundation walls, then filling them with insulation and adding a finished wall surface. These days, spray-in closed-cell polyurethane foam is the best choice for this, since it provides a seamless, high-R-value wall that serves as its own vapour barrier. It’s important to deal with any moisture issues, particularly foundation leaks, from the outside before trying to insulate your interior walls. Otherwise you may create a mouldy situation.
I’ll be using closed-cell spray foam to insulate my rim joists. Here’s a great video showing the technique.

Because my home is fairly small, I’m keen to maintain as much room down in my basement as possible. So when looking for a wall insulation option, I was glad to find InSoFast, an R-10 wall cladding option that serves as vapour barrier (when you seal the tops and sides with spray foam) and allows you to attach drywall directly to it. InSoFast panels have a polyethylene strip for mounting drywall, and comes with wiring channels built right in.
Through all of this, I’m aware that, while my basement is leak free and feels dry, to keep it from getting moist and musty I not only need insulation, I need air circulation. With air flow, I’ll avoid condensation (when hot, moist air hits cold surfaces, water forms) and keep my basement nice and dry.
Basements are complicated places to retrofit, but given the energy savings and the lure of expanded living space, it’s worth it!