Andrew's ingredient of the month -- Artichokes

Andrew's ingredient of the month -- Artichokes

While eating local might be your goal, in March Canadians would be stuck eating old rutabagas and beets if it weren't for California. Take advantage of their early harvest and celebrate artichokes.
Updated:
2009-10-17 21:22
Published:
2008-03-18 00:00
By 
Andrew Chase, Homemakers Magazine Food editor

What's an artichoke? How to cut and cook an artichoke

As we proclaim the niceties of eating locally, it isn't realistic to do so in Canada when you want variety (or a fresh green vegetable in winter). Alas, we must consume fuel to ship in vegetables from warmer climes. If we are to, albeit guiltily, enjoy the fruits of our energy overuse, we should at least pick the best and the seasonal. Artichokes are one of the wonders of the vegetable world and in California, the spring harvest begins in March.

Artichokes have wonderful keeping qualities, so fresh-picked artichokes in California almost equals fresh-picked ones on our shelves. Why not warm up this snowy March with this most Mediterranean of vegetables?

What's an artichoke?
Artichokes are members of the thistle family, as are cardoons (the stalks of which are eaten and, not coincidentally, taste like artichokes). The artichoke is the immature flowerhead or unopened bud of the prickly but elegant-looking artichoke plant. Small buds grow on smaller side stems, while large central stems can produce large-sized artichokes.

There are many varieties of artichokes but practically all of the artichokes shipped to Canada are green. One springtime when I was in southern France, I enjoyed many more types, including purple and light greenish-yellow ones. They all have similar flavours, varying slightly in sweetness and texture. Generally speaking, smaller artichokes are more tender than large ones.

How to cut and cook an artichoke
Artichokes turn brown easily after cutting, so always use a stainless-steel (not carbon steel) knife and place the artichoke in acidulated water (water that's infused with lemon juice or vinegar) after trimming.

The simplest way to cook a large globe artichoke is to:
-Boil it whole, in salted water.
-Trim the stem end by cutting off any of the end that has darkened. Don't completely cut off the stem. If you want the artichoke to sit upright on a plate, cut it off after cooking and serve the stem on the side. The peeled stems are really just extensions of the heart.
-Tear off any tiny leaves attached to the stems and at the base of the artichoke. (Fancy cooks might want to trim off the thorns at the tip of each leaf with scissors, but I find this step unnecessary for home cooking.)
-With a vegetable peeler or small paring knife, peel the stems.

If you're cooking two to four artichokes, squeeze half a lemon into a pot of salted water. Use a whole lemon for more than four pieces. Place the artichokes in enough water to cover and place a plate over the artichokes to keep them submerged. Cover the pot with a lid and bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until a middle leaf pulls out easily (40 to 50 minutes.) Drain upside-down for a few minutes. Serve artichokes with melted butter, with or without lemon juice, or a light vinaigrette of olive oil, lemon juice, a touch of wine vinegar or sherry vinegar, salt and pepper.

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How to eat an artichoke, how to prepare small artichokes, artichoke recipes

How to eat an artichoke
To eat an artichoke, pull off the outer petals, one-by-one, and dip the fleshy part of the leaf in the butter or vinaigrette. Scrape off the tender fleshy bits with your teeth, discarding the inedible tougher parts of the leaf. When you come to the purple and white prickly leaves of the centre, pull them out and, with a spoon, scrape the choke (the fine hairs) of the top of the heart and discard. Cut the heart and stem into pieces.


How to prepare small artichokes
Small artichokes are wonderful when boiled until tender and drizzled with olive oil or marinated in a vinaigrette. To prepare them:
-Pull off the tough, dark outer green leaves of each artichoke to reveal the tender yellow-green interior. You'll have to tear off more leaves than your waste-not-want-not conscience might allow, but it's essential to only have the tender inner leaves. For this job, expect a big bag of waste for the compost.
-Peel the stem. Cut off and discard the top third to half of each artichoke so only the tender bottom part of the leaves, heart and stems remain. Place the trimmed artichokes directly in acidulated water. If you are working slowly, run a cut lemon over the exposed surfaces of the artichokes to prevent too much browning.Small artichokes have little or no choke, so they can be boiled whole. Boil in acidulated salted water until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Or let cool, mix with vinegar and/or lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper (and garlic if desired); let stand for at least 10 minutes or marinate for up to 1 day.

Medium or even large artichokes can also be prepared as above, only they must be halved or quartered after trimming and the choke must be scraped out with a paring knife before cooking.

You can also braise artichokes directly with lots of fragrant olive oil. Or you can cook them in stock or water, flavoured with bay leaf and other herbs, drain, and finish them in a skillet with garlic and olive oil. In Italy, cooks like to deep fry sliced smaller artichokes in olive oil and eat them crispy.

Look for my pizza recipe in the May 2008 issue of Homemakers, where raw artichokes are thinly sliced and cooked directly in the pizza -- a real artichoke-lover's dream recipe! In the meantime, try my recipe for Stuffed Artichokes. It was inspired by a Sicilian-American friend who brought his grandmother's artichokes from his Brooklyn home to our Columbia University dorm for us to enjoy.

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Andrew Chase is Homemakers Magazine's food editor, the author of The Asian Bistro Cookbook (Robert Rose, 1997), The Blender Bible (Robert Rose, 2005) and co-author of 400 Blender Cocktails: Sensational Alcoholic And Non-alcoholic Cocktail Recipes (Robert Rose, 2006). Subscribe to Homemakers Magazine and don't miss any of Andrew's recipes and menus.

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