Join a Carnival parade in Curacao

Join a Carnival parade in Curacao

A man travels to Curacao and joins Carnival festivities. Dressed in costume and makeup, he hits the streets of Otrabanda as he walks in the Gran Marcha parade.
Updated:
2010-03-15 10:27
Published:
2008-01-03 00:00
By 
Kevin Revolinski

Getting ready for Carnival

I know I danced for hours, but I also know how far I danced: four miles or 6.4 km, to be exact, and receiving high-fives and drinks along the way.

Carnival, in many parts of the world, is a party extraordinaire with colorful parades and festivities leading up to Ash Wednesday, the start of the Christian pre-Easter period of fasting known as Lent. Revelers gather at carnival events to drink and dance and watch parades full of elaborate floats. Why just be a spectator, I figure? I went to Curacao to actually be in the parade.

Curacao, a colourful travel destination
Located in the southern Caribbean Sea, 59.5 km north of Venezuela, Curacao (pronounced cure-a-SOW) is the largest island of the Netherlands Antilles. Its capital, Willemstad, looks like a misplaced Amsterdam splashed with Caribbean colour. 17th and 18th century colonial buildings overlook the harbour that divides the city in two sections -- Punda and Otrobanda -- connected by the Queen Emma pontoon bridge. Both sections provide visitors with excellent duty-free shopping and local culture while water sports and gorgeous beaches lie just a bit farther afield.But every year, starting in January, all this takes a back seat to Carnival. Its local history dates back to private masquerade parties in the 19th century but by the 1970s, the event had transformed to a popular island-wide celebration. In 2007, Carnival groups welcomed travellers to leave the sidelines and be a bigger part of the fun.

Costume fitting
To join the parade, I signed up with Taki Tin, the largest of the Carnival groups (and perhaps the least organized, which kept this fun). When I arrived on the island two days before the Gran Marcha parade, the group's seamstress greeted me and several other visiting participants in her home where we took turns trying on our costumes. I had e-mailed my measurements several weeks in advance. Most of the costumes were spot on; others needed some quick alterations but then we were off. We had to leave our shoes for final decoration and pick them up later. A word of advice: bring shoes you never want to see again. In many cases, the costume designers use a glue that is difficult to remove.

Two days later, we gathered for a hearty buffet breakfast at a pavilion at 10 a.m. where make-up artists laid on the finishing touches. The 200 or so members of Taki Tin piled into school buses that took us to the starting point of the parade which passes through Otrabanda on a different route every year.

Click to continue...

See photos from this trip at Slideshow -- Carnival in Curacao.

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Dancing for 6.4 km

The Gran Marcha parade
There were 31 floats complete with bands, costumed marching dancers, and dedicated beverage servers who thread their way through the groups handing out plenty of water, vodka, whisky and rum drinks as well as an assortment of finger food. The music started and for the next four miles -- and over five hours -- never stopped as we shuffled along the route in our costumes to the cheers of onlookers. Earplugs are definitely advisable, especially if you want to walk close to the bandwagon.


Being in a local group was an engaging Carnival experience, but there is another advantage to celebrating in Curacao: this is not the kind of Carnival where I felt I needed to have my pockets sewn shut with barbed wire or where screaming drunk revelers falling all over me and spilling their drinks was the norm. There is plenty of carousing, to be sure, but it is a good-natured crowd and overall the event is even family-friendly. 

Curacao Carnival events
The lead-up to Carnival starts in early January and includes various parties called jump-ups and a four-day music festival where local tumba bands and composers compete to have their song selected as the official march. The warm-up also includes Children's Carnival and the election of the Carnival Queen. But the events not to miss are the two parades: the Gran Marcha and Marcha Despedida (the Farewell March) on the evening before Ash Wednesday. The latter brings lights and sparklers to the floats and ends with the burning of King Momo, an enormous straw effigy representing infertility, bad luck and bad behaviour. It's a spectacle, for sure, and accompanied by fireworks.

Two nights after the Gran Marcha parade, after exhausting ourselves with another parade of song, dance and drink, we gathered to watch as King Momo lit up the sky.

Costs and details
Prices range from $400 USD to over $1,000. Much of the variation in cost has to do with included meals and the complexity of the costumes. Some groups require an early arrival for rehearsal. Taki Tin was more laid back, unrehearsed, and charged $417, the most common price tag. The price included transportation to both parades, two breakfasts and dinners, snacks, drinks and, of course, a fitted costume. Don't worry -- these are not the kind of Carnival costumes you pick up in an envelope.

Not interested in the long march? Sign on with the Curacao Tourism booth for a modest fee and enjoy food, drink, and a front row bleacher view of the parade route.

For more information, including a schedule of carnival events, go to www.curacaocarnival.info.

Check out a live web cam showing Curacao's governor's palace and harbour view.

See photos from this trip at Slideshow -- Carnival in Curacao.

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Are you a conscientious traveller? Learn how to travel to the Caribbean without leaving a negative impact on local people and their environment.

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