Serenity and sun in St. Kitts and Nevis

"It's not the Caribbean; it's the West Indies," says Simon Bell at the Marriott on St. Kitts. Yes, the Caribbean laps along one side of the island and the Atlantic on the other, but his point is this place is unique. The two-island nation of St. Kitts and Nevis could be referred to as Quiet and Quieter.

Gorgeous green on a couple of formerly volcanic isles coupled with rich history and friendly locals make this destination a welcome departure from the handful of other Caribbean...er, West Indian destinations that are popular and maybe just a little "been there, done that."

A Kittitian welcome
"What have you come to take from my island?!" a grey-haired woman shouts at me from her door as I pass on the walk in one of the many tiny villages along St. Kitts' seaside drive. I grimace, expecting the worst.

"Nothing, ma'am. Just come to see the place."What I think is one of the locals casting hexes on an unwanted tourist is actually just a kindly old woman who's pulling my leg. She chats from her doorway for several minutes about how wonderful her life has been on this little island. "I've never been anywhere but here and I don't plan on leaving now."

About St. Kitts
Formerly a cane island (its nickname is Sugar City), St. Kitts is a quiet dollop of green, great for a tropical getaway. It's rich with history, has a laid-back vibe, and is home to a top-notch spa at the Marriott; the island's only deluxe hotel, set on a fine stretch of beach on the Atlantic side and only a short walk from the Caribbean at Frigate Bay. From this southerly end, a circle tour makes a nice day trip.

My first stop is the Carabelle Batik Factory. Located in a 17th-century sugar plantation building amid a botanical garden, the textiles that come from here challenge the vibrant colours of the array of flora. Drying fabrics flap in the wind and you can watch artisans soak a mixture of paraffin and beeswax into the threads, which keeps out the dyes and creates some wonderful designs.

Brimstone Hill Fortress
History awaits at Brimstone Hill Fortress, a national park centred around Fort George. It took over 100 years of slave labour to complete it. A museum there reveals the story of the island and depicts the horrors of slavery. From the ramparts, I can see neighbouring islands St. Maarten and Saba. Hint: If you don't want to rent a car, there is a great railroad tour that follows the old sugar cane lines around the island.

What and where to eat
The finest local cuisine is the menu for the day (like every day) at Rawlin's Plantation Inn. The plantation grows many of the herbs that enhance the plates on the menu, and much of the seafood and vegetables come from nearby. Lunch is a buffet so you can try a bit of everything, from excellent curries to banana fritters. Be sure to order a rum punch.

In the evening I return to the Marriott's Blu, a gourmet seafood eatery with a crab dip that lures me away from the hotel's equally notable steakhouse.

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Travelling to Nevis
Two days later, I see what the sister island has to offer. Nevis is a step down in quiet and a step up in luxury, generally speaking. Whereas St. Kitts can handle a cruise ship, only the smaller, more exclusive lines will dock at Nevis.

The rising mountains on the island are close and tempting and offer great hiking in the cooler heights. For lunch, kick off your shoes and sip a Killer Bee (with its rum stinger!) at Sunshine's Beach Bar and Grill on Pinney's Beach or stay up in the hills for a divine lobster-salad sandwich on the day's bread at Golden Rock Plantation Inn. (They also have a seaside location at Pinney's Beach.)

Montpelier Plantation
Dinner at Montpelier Plantation is as relaxing as it is haute. Guests gather in the main room of the Great Hall for drinks and to socialize. Wait staff take orders in between cocktails so that you don't take your seat until the food is ready for you -- it's a gourmet meal with a sunset to match.Montpelier's inn offers peace and quiet as well as mountain breezes. The fact that Princess Diana once chose this place over the seaside Four Seasons says much. The inn offers style and class without being stuffy; and views of the sea below are nice to come "home" to. This is a paradise retreat as good as any.

For travellers looking for a bit more activity and that rum-punch-in-hand vibe, head to Oualie Beach Resort. Activities include windsurfing, snorkelling and scuba diving. A bit of local live music is a nice touch as well.

I sit at the bar at Oualie, waiting as the sun sets, hoping to see the Green Flash as the sun slips off the horizon. I think I see it, but I can't be sure. Perhaps if I stay another night…

Recommendations:
St. Kitts
The Marriott offers the nicest accommodations and the island's only large resort. A casino and first-class spa add to its appeal, as do the restaurants.


For something a bit more exclusive, you might consider a stay at one of the old sugar plantations, such as Ottley's Plantation Inn.

Nevis
Choose the beach or the mountains. Oualie Beach Resort has prices in the mid range and puts you right on the sand, facing St. Kitts. Snorkelling is around the bend from here and the bar and restaurant feel as local as the rum punch.

Alternatively, Montpelier Plantation Inn is a gem, set high up the mountainside.

For great photos from this trip, see our St. Kitts and Nevis slideshow.

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